It is Sunday the 27th of March, Easter Sunday, which obviously isn't celebrated here in this Pagan country.
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It's grey, foggy and a bit windy. Single i s: t nikolai concert is arranged in our honour today. I look forward to it and eager to see what will happen. We were also told yesterday that they've arranged a Goodbye party in our honour two days before we leave, enough to give us one day of rest. I do worry a bit what that will turn out to be, since the intoxication of alcoholic beverages is visible in the single i s: t nikolai.
Well, except during the nights, I guess, when we're inside the yurangi a cot like tent made from reindeer skinsgöra på dejt i s: t peters kloster we have an additional small tent for everyone inside the yurangi.
That's warm enough. Anyhow, today we have wood stove's, which we didn't have when I was young.
- Она совершила судорожный рывок влево и вроде бы закружилась в воздухе, а затем снова прильнула к центру лестницы.
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- И при этом подбрасывает подсказки, которые нелегко распознать.
They're meticulous and touch all aspects of a life. It hasn't changed dramatically the last years, when it comes to the handling aspect of the reindeer.
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Except the important arrival of the snowmobile. Which we realized the day after arrival in Kolymskaya, when we joined a reindeer brigade dejt aktiviteter i smedby the exact moment when they moved their big herd from the taiga to the tundra.
The brigade consisted of 5 Chukchis, where everyone except one, used snowmobiles to push the herd northwards.
That lone Chukchi walked ahead of all the rest, with a line of reindeers pulling sledges behind him. Sledges which carried all their belongings and pretty much everything the herders needed to survive for a few months on the vast tundra.
It's a long way to Ambarchik. As you know, the Russian explorer Cherskii died here before reaching Ambarchik. So eat! However, their narrow mindedness taken into account, they all got struck by, and appreciated, how generous, kind and welcoming the Chukchis were.
Still, sadly, the Russians in the west, or the east as well by the way, demote the Chukchis with jokes which make them look stupid and primitive. Nothing could be more wrong. Since I do have a wide experience of so called aboriginal natives from all over the world, e.
The Chukchis are not only witty and clever, they're also, as everyone else along the Kolyma, very hospitable. We've got a daily stream of visitors who all bring food.
Our refrigerator and our stomachs are overloaded! I have never come across anything like this regarding generosity! Definitely a very good lesson in humanity and a high-light in my life.
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But, since we've only been in contact with Chukchis for a couple single i s: t nikolai weeks it is still to early to point out any major differences between them and the Evens, Yakuts and Yugahirs and the Kolyma Russianswhen it comes to specific behaviour, but there's no doubt that they're very straight on and honest, curious and interested and they're very open. The Chukchis are very uncomplicated and easy to get along with. The Chukchi were the last native tribe to succumb to the Russian colonial expansion during the 16th Century.
They have never themselves engaged in wars to conquer other tribes. Which says a lot about their sense of compassion. Obviously, they are animists and listen carefully to what the spirits of nature tell them.
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That's another reason why it was easier during the Soviet era for us reindeer farmers. There's really two types of Chukchi, with vastly different dialects and, even, culture.
The Chukchis in this region are reindeer farmers, but the major part are hunters who live along the coastline.
They're both animists, though, which is important for them. And for us and the future of Kolyma. And Siberia.
- So the night before we picked up the van, we had planned to stay with a couch surfer the night before the Adventure begun to keep costs down.
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We have noticed something very important -and alarming- during our trip along the Kolyma, when it comes to the trappers and their ethical way to work their trade. The Russians -many of them Ukrainians looking for a better life in a capitalistic sense- they hunt and fish to collect as much as they possibly can and they don't worry a bit if they unsettle the laws governing the nature. Even though they're very nice folks, they are over fishing and over hunting.
They're looking for profit. In comparison to the native tribes of the area, the Evens, the Yugahirs and the Chukchi. They never take more from nature than they need to survive. During the Soviet era, a mere percent were privately owned. This is a good thing with the changes after perestroika. Some of them even defend Stalin's gulags. However, most of them show great surprise when I give them a perspective from the Swedish side.
The eternal threat we felt, their isolation and closed borders and the harassment and persecution of people with opposite thoughts. I guess this is a clear sign that the Soviet propaganda worked very well here.
- Такси все еще двигалось рядом, тоже въехав на газон.
- Чтобы еще больше усилить впечатление о своей некомпетентности, АНБ подвергло яростным нападкам программы компьютерного кодирования, утверждая, что они мешают правоохранительным службам ловить и предавать суду преступников.
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In a way we haven't come across until now. There's no doubt, nonetheless, that most people along the Kolyma genuinely thought it was better during the Soviet era. But most people do not defend the atrocities and awful mistakes by either Stalin or the other Soviet dictators.
We'll visit of the 6 brigades roaming the area. So I tell them the little I know and they enjoy it a lot, but disagree with many things, especially the choice of modern equipment.
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Det skall bli intressant att se vad det blir. Man kan undra vad det blir. Allt i renskinn.
Ingenting kunde vara mer fel. Expedition Tracking Center.